DUAL-FUEL · RANGETOP · INDUCTION

Range, Rangetop and Cooktop Repair

Sealed-burner ignition faults, gas valve problems, induction failures and dual-fuel oven control on professional ranges and drop-in cooktops.

40-mile radius$129 diagnostic90-day labor warranty

Technician checking the igniter on a dual-fuel range, one burner cap lifted off, the tile floor in frame - Range, Rangetop and Cooktop Repair

Sound familiar?

What we get called out for

  • One burner clicks but will not light
  • The igniter keeps clicking after the flame is on
  • Flames are yellow, lazy or uneven across the burner
  • The griddle or infrared charbroiler will not heat
  • Induction elements shut off after a few minutes
  • Half the cooktop is dead and the other half works
  • A knob is stiff, gritty or will not turn to simmer
  • The oven under a dual-fuel range runs hot or cold
  • There is a gas smell when the burner is on low

What usually fails

On a professional gas range the failure is almost always at the burner, not in the electronics. Sealed burners on Wolf, Viking and Thermador rangetops use a spark electrode mounted in a ceramic insulator alongside the burner head. That ceramic cracks from thermal cycling and from being knocked with a pan. Once it cracks, the spark takes the short path to ground instead of jumping the gap to the burner, and you get clicking with no ignition. The other high-frequency item is the burner cap. Set down a millimeter off center and the flame goes uneven, lazy and yellow — which people read as a gas supply problem when it is a two-second seating issue.

Gas valves are next. The stem grease in a professional valve is a heavy silicone compound. After a decade of heat cycles it stiffens, the knob gets gritty, and the simmer detent stops holding a low flame. Griddles and infrared charbroilers fail differently: the ceramic burner face degrades and the flame pattern goes patchy, or the separate control thermostat loses its charge.

Induction is a different animal. The coils themselves almost never fail. What fails is the inverter board, the cooling fan that keeps it alive, and the supply. These cooktops run on a 240-volt circuit with two hot legs, and losing one leg at the breaker or at a loose lug kills half the cooking surface while the other half works normally. That symptom sends a lot of people shopping for a new cooktop when the fault is in the panel.

On dual-fuel ranges the top and the oven are effectively two appliances. A gas top with an electric oven means burner faults and oven faults have nothing to do with each other, and they get diagnosed separately.

How we diagnose it

We start at the data plate, not the internet. On Sub-Zero Group products the model on the tag often carries an ICB prefix ahead of the number you know the unit by, and that full string is what determines the correct part.

Gas work begins with a manometer on the manifold. Without a measured pressure, every downstream conclusion is a guess. We confirm the appliance is set for the fuel it is actually connected to, check orifice sizing, and read the pressure with burners lit rather than static. Electrodes get ohmed and inspected under light for hairline cracks. Spark modules get checked for a solid chassis ground, which is the cause of more phantom clicking than any bad module.

For induction and for electric elements we take voltage at the terminal block on both legs under load, then work inward to the inverter and the fan.

What the repair involves

A 48-inch professional range weighs several hundred pounds and sits on a stone or wide-plank floor. Before anything moves, the gas is shut at the appliance valve, the floor is covered, and the range comes forward onto hardboard so the feet never touch the finish. Rangetops and drop-in cooktops come up from above, which is easier, but the counter edge gets protected the same way.

Everything that opens a gas joint gets leak-tested with solution on reassembly. The range is re-leveled front to back so pans sit flat, and the anti-tip bracket goes back where it belongs. We install genuine OEM parts. Burner caps and heads are model-specific, and port geometry that looks close enough will give you a flame that is not.

When it is worth repairing

Almost always, on this class of equipment. Electrodes, caps, valves and igniters are modest parts on a range that was a serious purchase and is built to be rebuilt. The honest exception is a discontinued control board with no supply left. When we hit that, we say so on the first visit rather than ordering parts to find out.

Replacement is rarely just the appliance. A 48-inch range or a flush-set cooktop sits in a cut-out that was built around it, next to a hood sized for it. We would rather fix the burner.

We are an independent shop, based in Fruit Cove and working Mon–Fri 8am–6pm and Sat 9am–4pm. Call +1 (904) 977-8701.

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Ranges & Cooktops we service

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Some of it you can genuinely sort out yourself in ten minutes. We would rather you did than paid us to.

Ranges & Cooktops: common questions

Why does my Wolf burner keep clicking after it lights?

On a sealed-burner rangetop the spark module fires every electrode at once, so a click you hear at one burner is often being generated by a different one. Continuous clicking after ignition is almost always moisture or boil-over bridging an electrode to the burner base. Dry the well completely, seat the cap square, and if it still clicks the electrode is usually cracked and grounding through the ceramic.

One burner will not light but the rest are fine. Is the module bad?

Rarely. A module that has failed usually takes every burner with it, because they share one spark circuit. A single dead burner points to that burner itself — a cracked electrode, a misseated cap, a blocked port, or a gas valve that is not opening. We test the electrode and the valve before we sell anyone a module.

Can you convert my range between natural gas and propane?

Yes, when the manufacturer publishes a conversion kit for that model. It is not a matter of drilling anything out. It requires the correct orifices for every burner and the oven, the right regulator setting, and a manometer check of manifold pressure afterward. We document the pressures on the invoice.

My induction cooktop shuts down after a few minutes of cooking. What is happening?

Induction electronics are cooled by a fan that pulls air through the cabinet under the cooktop. When a drawer, a heat shield or a run of trim blocks that path, the inverter reaches its thermal limit and drops the elements to protect itself. We check the ventilation clearance first, then the fan, then the inverter board.

Do you work on La Cornue and other imported hand-built ranges?

Yes, as an independent shop. The diagnosis is the same trade skill, but be realistic about parts. Components for hand-built French and Italian ranges are ordered from the importer and lead times run longer than domestic parts. We tell you the expected wait before you commit to the repair.

Customer feedback

After a ranges & cooktops visit

Rated 4.8 out of 5 across 72 customer reviews. These three describe this job in particular.

Verity S.Jan 22, 2026

The oven side of our range was running well under the dial and everything came out pale. He recalibrated it against a probe, then found the door seal had shrunk at one corner and replaced it. Baking is even again.

Lorna V.Feb 2, 2026

The cooktop knobs were getting too hot to touch and one had melted slightly. He found the burner running rich and the deflector missing under the panel, corrected the air shutter and fitted the part that was absent.

Emmett J.Jul 25, 2026

The griddle plate would not hold an even temperature across its surface. He checked both elements, found one had drifted badly and replaced it along with the control thermostat. Pancakes cook the same at either end now.

Read all 72 reviews

Talk to a technician

Ranges & Cooktops giving you trouble?

Read us the model and serial number off the data plate along with what it is doing. That is usually enough for us to tell you what we expect to find.

+1 (904) 977-8701 Book online
  • $129 flat diagnostic , credited toward the repair
  • 2-hour arrival windows, with a call ahead
  • Mon–Fri 8am–6pm · Sat 9am–4pm
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